Traveling at Mach 0.012

Sunday June 29

Start: Eagle Mountain Bridge
End: Kamiah, ID
Day total miles: 69
Journey total miles 3182

Towns passed through:
Lowell, ID
Syringa, ID
Kooskia, ID
Kamiah, ID

Sleeping at the Clearwater 12 Motel – this is definitely one of the best values in motels. Clean (really clean) rooms, nice people, and a stunning view.

The morning was still cool at the start, but as the sun came out, was able to take off the raincoat. The ride was downhill or flat almost the entire trip. Spoiled me and I’ll pay tomorrow – looks like a 2000 ft ascent first thing.

Without the rain, the journey today along the Lochsa River was much more pleasant. Watched two boats take on the rapids in style and generally found the ride to be easy for looking around and taking it in. These pictures don’t give a true perspective but here goes:

This part of Rt 12 is through a canyon of forest with very steep sides and a fast moving river to the left. Black clouds would roll by but fortunately no rain on my parade.

First real stop was the gas station (with no gas today; much to the displeasure of many motorcyclists). Needed a break after 30 something miles, so had a conversation with the store owner. The place serves as a convenience store, tackle shop, and checkin station for hunters. While there, i spied this t-shirt and had to memorialize it for my rocketry friends:

Must be popular, the only size left was a small.

While there, it started to pour from the skies above, so good planning on my part for the stop. The rain stopped and I was on my way. More down grade and then out of the national forest to houses along the road again. The road wound along the Clearwater River (the Lochsa and Selway rivers join to form the Clearwater). I wish i would have stopped to get a picture, but the Tram like cars that popped up every once in a while were interesting. There are cables stretched across the river and trams that ferry people to the other side where beautiful homes are. There appears to be limited road access to these homes and it must be a long way around to to bridges for more conventional crossings. Fireworks are big around here:

This one just makes me laugh, here you can get fireworks and fresh or smoked salmon.

I saw a bald eagle carry off a fish from the river as i was leaving Kooskia; quite a sight. WIll finish with the view from my reporting site at the hotel:

Saturday June 28

Start: Lolo
Destination: Eagle Mountain Bridge
Day miles: 71
Journey total miles: 3113

Towns passed through:
Lolo
Lolo Hot Springs
Powell

As I left Lolo, the road began a gradual climb towards the pass. Cloudy weather, but no rain (yet). Passed many farms and some evidence or a not to distant past forest fire along some of the mountains.

Here is one hillside that has many charred trees left.

I pedaled along thinking, this is not too bad for a climb to a peak. Reached Lolo Hot Springs, contemplated stopping for breakfast, but instead kept going. Then, the grade picked up a bit and the climb began. Still not awful, but definitely a long climb. The mile marker was 6, so, hoping that there would be a level spot at the top, i kept good spirits for the long climb ahead. Slowly the miles ticked away, life goes by much slower at 8 mph rather than the 12-15 on the flat spot. Along the road about halfway into the climb, there was a van parked along the road with the company logo for a business that measures race times accurately. My thoughts were that they were out for a bike ride in the national forest and that was a good parking spot.

The climb continued, 4, 3, 2, and finally 1. Excitement built as my legs started to get a little weary from the long slow ascent. Soon, I would be able to check another state off the list and add a new one. THe sign ahead said rest stop 1/4 mile. Great, i thought, there will be a rest stop before i get out of Montana. Then, another sign about 1/4 mile later… Rest Stop 1/4 mile. Cruel.

Finally the summit. Ok you would think I just scaled everest or something. Off to the left was a rest area with lots of cars (i wondered why all of the cars passing me were of the Subaru, and Prius variety. This is what I saw:

That is right, some kind of race finish line. Heard the familiar cow bells too. It was the Mountain to Meadow Half Marathon. And it started to rain. Great day for a run.

Wait, before the finish line, there was:

and then:

and finally:

This is the way to travel.

Took a short break, and then prepared to descend down the mountain. Put on the rain coat and hopped on. Planned to meet EK at Lochsa Lodge down the mountain. Ok, was I ill prepared for this descent. The road was rough and wet, it was raining, and i did not have enough gear on to stay warm. The sign said winding road next 99 miles. OK…

At times, i was shivering so much that i had to stop to warm up. While a fast descent, it was a bit scary given the conditions. Around a turn I go and here is what greets me:

He did not seem to care that i was there and looked bigger than the picture makes him to be. After a few car approached, he ducked into the woods. I rode by to see him standing in the trees waiting for the traffic to pass.

Made it to Lochsa Lodge, shivering and wet but in one piece. Coffee and breakfast. Yeah. Lots of coffee. The breakfast was good too Now I have an idea about how to make corned beef hash the right way.

While drying out, met a couple from Winchester VA who rode a tandem bike. They planned to ride over the pass, but the rain damped their spirits. We had a wonderful conversation about their rides and adventures and shared some of our as well. With at least 26 more miles to go, I headed out into the wet dreary day again. But this time, had my rain pants and stayed mostly dry. The grade wasn’t as steep, so I had an easy ride down the mountain.

Well, it was goodbye to Montana; the state I spent the most time enjoying the good and bad parts of this ride. The road from Circle to Jordan with its corresponding headwinds is forever a horrifying memory of how hard this trip could be at times. Then there were the many beautiful days with sun, clouds, and cool breezes to make the ride enjoyable. Won’t be in Idaho for long, so I guess the rain and cold are only fitting to remind me that this is the northwest.

Friday June 27

Start: Ovando, MT
Destination, Lolo, MT
Day total miles: 72*
Journey total miles: 3042
Towns passed through:
Ovando, MT
Potomac, MT
Bonner, MT
Milltown, MT
East Missoula, MT
Missoula, MT
Lolo, MT

Sleeping in Missoula

Relatively fast ride today, some small hills, but a good downhill run away from the pass and into Missoula. The rain held off for the most part in the morning and as usual, putting on the rain jacket turned off the rain.

Stopped in at Adventure Cycling, where i was greeted by Geoff, the head of sales and shipping. Geoff welcomed me, took my picture for the wall of visitors, and showed me around the organization. The HQ building, a renovated church, is well organized and accommodating for guests. They have a lounge area for cyclists passing thru, internet access, and free drinks and ice cream. What is not to like about this. Geoff was extremely helpful and the organization should be proud. I am glad to see my membership dollars being spent so wisely.

I headed out of downtown Missoula towards Lolo. THe city is so bike friendly with bike lanes, and signs everywhere advising motorists to share the roads; and they did. Stopped at a hoagie shop for some lunch and then out Rt 12 to Lolo. The trip was uneventful, but the motorists seemed to forget the lessons learned in Missoula about sharing the roads. Turned around in Lolo and headed back to Missoula to make up the 8 mile shortfall of yesterday.

World HQ

Earlier in the day, the clouds and the big sky.

Thursday June 27

Start: Black Rock, MT
Destination: Ovando, MT
Day total miles: 52*
Journey total miles: 2970
*Major road construction project outside of Lincoln, MT. Decided to take after Lewis and Clark and carry the bike across the hazard. Will pick up the miles later. The construction took up 8 miles of road, mostly gravel and mud, with no shoulder and lots of traffic. Safety took precedent.

Towns passed through:
Lincoln, MT
Ovando, MT
Sleeping in Missoula again.

Today is the day to pass over the continental divide via Rogers Pass. Started out in the rain. But first, breakfast in Lincoln. See the pancakes are huge:

The food was great, but lets just say that the conservatives outnumbered us by a large margin.

Headed out from my starting point and immediately had to tackle large rolling hills. Then the road flattened out for a long approach to the pass and then about 5 miles of constant uphill pull to the summit. Made it:

Then it was a long downhill to the construction site. Loaded up the bike and then unloaded after the construction. The skies cleared for a pleasant ride to Ovando for lunch at Trixi’s Antler Saloon. Trixi was fun, called us crazy (the most common reaction to our journey) and served up a good lunch. The cherry pie sealed the deal.

Wednesday June 25
Start: Great Falls, MT
Destination: near Black Rock, MT
Day total miles: 74
Journey total miles: 2918

Towns passed through:
Great Falls, MT
Vaughn, MT
Sun River, MT
Ft Shaw, MT
Simms, MT
Augusta, MT

Sleeping in Missoula

Nice sunny day for a ride. Not much in the way of terrain for most of the ride. Tackling the plains of MT. Towards the end, the terrain picked up and started to long rolling hills. Mostly uneventful day. Took the frontage road out of town and saw some great sights. Pictures below.

Stopped in Simms at the gas station/c-store. Talked to local farmer who invited me to the rodeo upcoming the following weekend. Too bad we will be pretty far west. Pedaled on to Augusta and stopped in this tourist town. Lots of campers and RVs milling around waiting for the roads to fully open in Glacier. Picked up a snack at the general store and rested for the final push. On reflection, the beer offered by the guy in the pickup truck would have been worth it.

Lots of good pictures

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Fitting name for a bar in MT

Did not expect to see Trader Joe’s out here.

Expanded selections in MT

Thanks Budweiser

For the family:

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Catching up on the blog and doing some errands. will leave you with this picture of the day:

Monday, June 23

Start: Windham, MT
Destination: Great Falls, MT
Day total miles: 65
Journey total miles: 2844

Towns passed through:
Windham, MT
Stanford, MT
Geyser, MT
Raynesford, MT
Belt, MT
Fife, MT
Great Falls, MT

Sleeping in Great Falls

No mountains, but some pretty hefty hills today. Started early to hav breakfast at Eddys Corner. Big truck stop with great water (came recommended). The breakfast was good and enjoyed the comments from one waitress about the other. Good to know that there are personality differences here too.

The ride started out with some climbs and then back down. Came into Stanford pretty quickly and then out and on towards Geyser. The hills were ok and the road good for biking. Then came Geyser. Coming out of town and up a hill you find the shoulder is about 18-24 inches wide and all rumble strip. This means that the choice is to ride on the road and hope that the vehicle will yield to me (most do) or take the rumble strip. Not the best experience. Who ever thought of this one should be subject to screaming babies and whiney children for a 12 hour plane ride.

After Raynesford, the road wound through canyons. Not much shoulder again, but mostly light traffic. Saw a real live coyote along this stretch. It paid no attention to me.

Stopped at t rest stop near Belt, where US 89 joins in with 200. While taking a break, several stopped and asked about my ride and wished me luck. The couple from Lewistown told me that only one more big hill before Great Falls. And it was in fact quite the hill. After that the ride was smooth sailing into Great Falls.

This is a pretty large town with lots of businesses. There is an Air Force base nearby; guess this is one of the economic drivers. Done by 1230 and a rest day tomorrow. Worked on the bike – took off the front rack, remounted the light on the fork. Still need to clean the chain, but that is a fairly fast job.

So I have some things that am not using – one panier, GPS unit that won’t work (ugh), some clothes that seemed like a good idea at the time, and my front rack. Took all over to Ship-it to send home. The folks there were friendly and gave me lots of local info and recommendations. Less stuff in the car and a lighter bike.

One of the great views of the day.

A fixer-upper that should be available for a good price. Needs some paint.

Sunday June 22

Start: WInnett, MT
Destination: Windham, MT
Day total miles: 93
Journey total miles: 2779

Towns passed through:
Winnett, MT
Teigen, MT
Grass Range MT
Lewistown, MT
Moore, MT
Eddies Corner, MT (ok not a town, but should be)
Hobson, MT
Moccasin, MT
Windham, MT

Sleeping in Lewistown, MT

Lewistown is a quaint little town in the middle of MT. Staying at the Trails End motel, nice place, clean with no frills. Ah, but phone service again. Need to catch up on things, including sleep.

Got up early and drove out to Winnett to start my ride for the day. Skipped a repeat of breakfast so that I could get moving and not sure I could ride after filling up on another pancake feast. The day promised to be calm winds and sunny skies. Oh boy.

The ride promised (and delivered) to be mostly a gradual uphill climb and then a steeper climb over the first real mountain since the east coast. Beautiful day for a ride. Met the guy with a flag on his back; a rider who started in Rhode Island. He is moving along pretty well and is covering many similar roads as we are. Of course he commented on the Circle to Jordan experience. Wished him well and started my climb up the mountain.

The climb was about 1000 ft from Grass Land. For some reason I had thoughts of the Tour de France in my head, so I fancied myself as a tour rider on a mountain stage. The climb went well and I kept a good pace for the entirety. The signs for chain removal area ahead signaled that the climb was about over and then it was a good 7 mile downhill run to Lewistown. Reached town around 1130. Stopped in at Ruby’s 100% MT beef place for a burger and shake (huckleberry). Good fuel for the rest of the day. Riding through town there were some sights to see, the big car show brought in lots of antique cars. As I looked ahead, up rt 200, there is a huge hill climbing out of town. I thought oh no, this could be a bad sign. Not to worry, the climb was short and then it was back to a nice steady up and down hill cruise. Felt so good, that i kept going to Windham.

Some mountains in the morning. Still snow on the peaks.

For my friend Kenny who replied “there is a storm a brewin” Luckily not for me.

More mountains

This was in Hobson. There are references to meth all around; must be problem.

Finally remembered to take a picture of the plant with yellow flowers that is everywhere. Making my hay fever allergies go crazy.

Here is where i ended up; in Windham. The bar owner stuck his head out at one point and asked if I was coming in; when I said no he went back in and locked up.

Almost forgot. The deer around are pretty bold. One walked right out in front of me and i had to yell to get him out of the way. Glad i was going uphill at 8 mph and not down at 25.

Saturday June 21

Start: Edwards Rd outside of Jordan, MT
Destination: Winnett, MT
Day total miles: 53
Journey total miles: 2686

Towns passed through:
Edwards, MT
Sand Springs, MT
Mosby, MT
Winnett, MT

Sleeping in Lewistown, MT

Sunrise over the hills.
Another early morning start to beat the winds. This is 445 AM. Goal today is to make it to at least Winnett.

Oh, before I forget. Last night was steak night at the Hells Creek Bar. Got there around 545 and ended up sitting next to John and John (father and son) who were on an annual fishing trip. John Sr was very talkative. A former rancher and cowboy, now a wheat farmer. John Jr works for an ag loan company and both enjoy getting out to this part of the state. Learned about what to expect on the roads ahead, that John Sr formerly owned a ranch near Lolo that we would pass and other interesting facts about MT. They, like others I meet are fasciated with the fact that I am riding across the US just for fun.

Not sure what the best part of the evening was, but certainly talking with John and John was a high point. So, there is a tradition at the Hells Creek Bar that if you are sitting at the bar drinking at 6, you get a free drink. I like this tradition. Perhaps the best part was the dinner. Steak cooked on a grill to perfection, salads, baked potato, and desert. All for $15.

Got off to an early start again in my quest to beat the winds. Some rolling hills and then a long, mostly down hill roll into Mosby. There is the $1 million outhouse according to the locals. Yes, in Mosby, MT there is a rest stop, nothing else that I can figure out, but this huge two story rest stop. Sorry, no pictures. Then just past the rest stop was a recently hit and killed elk on the side of the road. I know, you don’t want to hear the road kill reports (i have seen almost everything), but this was a huge elk. There were some car parts spread around, but this huge elk. My only thought was hoping that it was not EK that hit the elk. Two reasons. First that he would be ok (no cars around and no blue parts, so think that part was ok. Second, this thing was pretty massive.

After the downhill, there is usually an uphill, so off to the climb I went. The road was more long climbs and descents, but not really mountains. Definitely not the rollers that I experienced between Circle and Jordan. Met up with EK along the way and he turned around and joined me to ride back to Winnett.

Breakfast at 930 and 53 miles behind me. Not a bad way to plan the day. The Kozy Korner Cafe in Winnett is world famous to its food and am I glad we stopped. Chef Ellen and her husband Buck were fun to meet. The pancakes were plate sized, light and fluffy (unlike many that we experienced). Ellen remarked that she thinks it is the water that makes a difference. Whatever it is, they are great. Would be worth the trip just for her “Ellen’s Country Starter” breakfast.

For my rocket friends:

Friday June 20

Start: 6 miles short of the Dinosaur Historical Marker
Destination: As far as I can get (Edwards Road and Rt 200)
Days total miles: 65
Journey total miles: 2633

Towns passed through:
Jordan, MT

Sleeping in Jordan

Ok, I am sure you have heard enough about the wind, but it seems to be dominating my existence lately. Started out really early to get in some miles before the winds picked up again. At 5 it was calm. Ready again to tackle the hills between Circle and Jordan. Not too encouraging when the locals tell you that the road sure is narrow and nobody likes to drive this section, let alone ride a bike. There are no shoulders, more traffic than I would like, especially RVs and my new favorite, pick up trucks pulling a camper AND a boat trailer. Guess if a tractor trailer can pull a double trailer, then a pick up can too. Now most of the drivers are really good about the cyclists. But the few who are not make it a little scary. The worst offenders are the drivers who want you to know they disapprove of cyclists on their roads, so they get as close as they can. Nice. Have not performed any inappropriate gestures yet, but close at times. These guys carry guns, so no sense getting them madder. The other scary thing is the big bus like campers, you know the ones that cost more than my house, are pulling a car (because you can’t get the big thing around those narrow town streets) and are driven by people who Willard Scott celebrates daily. A truck driver I met summed it up. They dont know how big their rigs are and it really does not matter because they cant see any ways. Oh boy. Glad I am thru this part of the journey.

Made it to Jordan for a late breakfast; there is nothing out there in the circle to Jordan link and getting up and out at 4 limits you to not much for breakfast. Stopped at the Hells Creek Bar for breakfast and Tammy hooked me up with lots of coffee and great bacon and eggs. The talk among and with the local clients was fun and I learned lots. “Make sure you stop at Eddys Corner on your way to Great Falls; best water in the world.”

Took my time and eventually got back out to complete my day. Made it to Edwards Road and Rt 200 and called it quits. Still on track, so not a worry.

Back in Jordan, rested and got ready for dinner. Oh yeah. There is no ATT cell service in this part of the world. None. Spotty WIFI that was not too high speed or with much bandwidth left me cutoff from most of the world.

Here are some pictures:

There is some redeeming value out here.

Typical of Eastern Montana.

Lots of these around.